The X10 is also designed with three distinct, custom spine zones- and specifically, a less stiff and- importantly- lighter tail section, which improves clearance and finger release consistency, compared to the much stiffer and heavier tail sections of parallel shafts (or even so-called “tri-spine” shafts from other makers). There are several advantages- the smaller diameter of the X10 shaft presents less surface area and a smaller cross section, which is very helpful in windy conditions at longer distances. When you trigger your release, there should be zero chance of rattle from the quiver or the shafts and broadheads it is holding.What advantage does the X10 have over other shafts? Are there any disadvantages? A gripper that can be adjusted to fit today’s micro-diameter arrows is also a good thing. Ensure the hood design will hold arrows in place and not allow them to bang and clang against each other or the hood itself. You will also want to take a close look at the quiver’s hood. An adjustable quiver promises balance and won’t make the bow feel awkward at full draw. You will be leaning your bow against trees and brush, and filling nocks with dirt and pine needles is never a good thing. You want an adjustable model that hugs the riser tightly and is adjustable up and down. If you’re looking to build the ultimate elk bow, a quality quiver is a must-have item. This stabilizer offers limitless customization, and being it’s a counter slide, you can achieve perfect front and back weight with this single bar system. One of my favorite systems is Bee Stinger’s MicroHex Counter Slide. Adjusting your sight in or out will remove this gap for a more consistent anchor and increased accuracy at extended ranges. When using a large peep sight, which is great for low light shooting, there can be a gap between the circle created by the sight housing and the peep. Ideally your peep sight and sight housing will form concentric circles when you’re at anchor. This feature allows you to fine tune your sight radius and peep alignment. Accuracy is everything, and you want to tinker with how far you want your sight in front of your riser in the months leading up to your hunt. You could lose a day of hunting, maybe more, depending how far from town you are.Ī sight with an adjustable dovetail bar is a good idea. If pin bars and heads get damaged, you’ll be heading off the mountain, looking for the nearest bow shop. It is common for tree limbs, brush, and debris to infiltrate the inside of the sight housing in elk country. A sight with brittle plastic pins is not ideal because they could break off. Pin build is something else to carefully consider. You’ll need one that can stand up to the rigors of elk country. Don’t Sleep on Your Sight Consider the durability of your sight. Drawing too much weight also leads to bad form, possible injury, and uncomfortable shots. If you can’t hold your bow straight out in front of you and bring the string directly back, you’re pulling too much weight. You’re after a comfortable and balanced shooting experience, and if you’re struggling to get the string back on the range, it will be mission impossible when the knees are knocking, and a bull is closing the distance. Just because you’re hunting elk doesn’t mean pulling 70 or 80 pounds of draw weight is a must. A jerky draw cycle that requires increased movement will make it harder for you to be accurate. When a bull walks in close, he will be on pins and needles, looking for another elk. Cams designed for comfort also create a draw cycle that is silky smooth. You want a rig that holds well and has cams that aren’t itching to pull your shoulder through the riser. When hunting elk, holding at full draw for extended periods is the norm. Choose a bow with a cam system designed for better draw comfort over one that sends a carbon arrow at jaw-dropping speed.
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